The Mantua-maker’s Stitch

It’s been slow-going getting the hang of my new school and homework schedule, but I finally treated myself to a few hours of sewing last Sunday.  I thought I would do a little work on my Marc Jacobs petticoat–pettis are easy, and with the way school has been challenging me, I’ll take minimal brain damage, thankyouverymuch!

I snapped a few photos of the mantua-maker’s stitch, which I learned when I was visiting the Margaret Hunter Millinery in Colonial Williamsburg last March.  I’m not sure if I’m doing it 100% accurately (it’s been six months!), but the end results worked for me, so I thought I would share.

As a reminder, here is the fabric I’m using:

I wanted to preserve the print, so I decided the seam line should be down the center stripe.  I arranged my fabric so that the prints lined up on both sides.  Then I ran a long, loose, basting stitch just about 1/8″ above where I wanted my actual seam line to be.  The basting seam acts like pins.

The pink line shows where the basting stitches are. The blue line is where the final seam line will be.

I trimmed the seam allowance, then turned everything over twice, encasing the raw edge.  Then I used a whip stitch catching all layers of the fabric where I wanted my seam line to be.  You could probably get a way with a much smaller encased seam allowance than the half-inch I ended up with.

The seam allowance is folded under twice (you can also roll it). The whip stitches catch all layers of fabric.

The right side before pressing.  You can hardly see the seam line!

This entry was posted in Present in the Past, Sewing Techniques, Works in Progress and tagged . Bookmark the permalink.

2 Responses to The Mantua-maker’s Stitch

  1. Trystan says:

    I don’t quite understand how you did that (I prob. need to see it done in person), but it looks beautiful!

    • wearwhenwhy says:

      Thanks for the compliment and the feedback. I edited the photos to illustrate where the seam lines are–I know it was hard to see the first time around. Hopefully this makes more sense now!

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